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Beaded Inca Puño Bracelet Tutorial

The beaded Inca Puño bracelet is project from my second upcoming book, Chain and Bead Jewelry Creative Connections. The Inca Puño chain, aka Box chain, Queen's Braid is a repetitive knot pattern. Using the constant 3.9mm diameter of the new mandrel-tip pliers to bend 19-gauge wire to encase the gemstone bead. The handtools needed for this project are chain-nose pliers, two flat-nose pliers, mandrel-tip pliers (3.1/3.9), and side-cutters. The material needed are two 15mm beads, two 19-gauge gold wires at 4¼-inch lengths, one hundred and seventy-seven 19-gauge:3.9mm ID gold jump rings, two 14-gauge:5.5mm ID gold catchrings, and a gold magnetic clasp.

This diagram illustrates where you will mark the 4¼-inch length of 19-gauge wire for the bead setting. From the left to right the 4¼-inch wire is divided into: ½-inch wrap around + 1¼-inch double-loop + 5/8-inch bead length + 1¼-inch double-loop + ½-inch wrap around.

1. Grip the 19-gauge wire at the 1/2-inch mark and bend a double loop around the 3.9mm mandrel jaw. You will need to stop before the wire bends over the next 3.1mm mandrel, release your pliers pressure and allow the formed loops to rotate back to the beginning position. Then regrip the loops and continue bending the wire till you have two full loops.

2. Grip the tip of the 1/2-inch wire tail and bend it around the base 19-gauge to secure the wrapping.

3. Add 15mm amethyst bead and repeat steps 1 and 2, creating a double-loop-around setting on both wire ends.

4. Spread the double-loops apart by 45-degrees, this will allow the Inca Puño chain to be assembled.

5. Add two 19-gauge:3.9mm jump rings (seen in silver) onto the angled-apart double-loop of the bead setting, creating the first knot of the Inca Puño chain, held open by an length of scrap copper wire

6. Add four rings, assembled two-on-two (shown in copper and silver), onto the first knot formation.

7. Fold back the silver pair and angle open the copper pair to form the second knot formation of the Inca Puño pattern, as shown held open by a copper wire.

8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to continue the repetitive pattern of the Inca Puño chain pattern. To taper the chain ends, use two 19-gauge:3.1mm gold rings, which connect the magnetic clasp with pair of 15-gauge:5mm gold rings.


Handcrafted super-strong gold-plated magnetic clasps.


  Please note that this tutorial is an abbreviated version of a project to be published in my upcoming second book, Chain and Bead Jewelry Creative Connections, and is not intended to be a substitute for the information in this book, but merely an illustration of how the new mandrel-tip pliers can be used in new and unique ways.
thank you, sdp.
Copyright © 2003-2008 Scott David Plumlee, all rights reserved